University of California
UC Master Gardener Program of Sonoma County
Corn
Ancient corn known as maize from areas near the Andes eventually hybridized with other grasses to become the field corn grown world-wide today. Succulent sweet corn was a spontaneous mutation in field corn and continues to be hybridized by commercial breeders. Popular in summer kitchens and home gardens, sweet corn comprises only about 1% of all corn grown.
Selecting Sweet Corn Varieties
- Besides colorful ornamental ears and popcorn, there are 3 types of sweet corn varieties.
- Standard sugary are older types with sugar converting rapidly to starch after harvest.
- Sugary-enhanced corn has been bred to increase more sweetness than earlier varieties.
- Super sweet are the most recent developments and sweetest as starch converts very slowly to sugar. Refrigeration slows starch conversion even more.
- Numerous varieties range from white to yellow to bicolor and in length of time to harvest.
Growing Techniques
- Evaluate your microclimate before planting. Very cool and foggy summers do not support consistent growth and pollination.
- Dig in compost or well-rotted manure before planting. Enrich poor soil by adding nitrogen fertilizer, such as fish emulsion, during early growth.
- Plant corn May-July. Corn does not tolerate frost and germinates poorly in cold soil.
- Soak shrunken kernels a few hours or overnight prior to planting; plant in moist soil.
- Direct seed 2-3 kernels per hill, 1 in. deep—or set out transplants—every 10-12 in. in rows 2-3 ft. apart; or plant in double rows 10-12 in. apart with 2½–3½ ft. between double rows.
- Plant corn in a block with a minimum of 3 rows, at least 4 ft. by 4 ft. for best wind pollination. Pollination is more successful in blocks than in 1 or 2 long rows.
- Separate super sweet varieties by at least 300 yards from other types to prevent cross pollination and loss of desirable characteristics.
- Remove any stunted shoots; transplant crowded strong shoots 3-4 in. tall to fill gaps in rows.
- Water adequately to produce full, juicy ears; corn does not do well in drought conditions.
- Make successive plantings every 2 weeks by planting early-, mid-, and late-season varieties, using only the earliest varieties for late-summer crops to allow enough time for ears to mature.
Harvesting Ears
- Expect to harvest 20-40 ears from a 3- or 4-row block in 60-110 days or longer after sowing, or about 2-3 weeks after the first silk strands appear.
- Watch for shriveled, brown silks at the tops of green husks and plump ears to indicate maturity.
- Identify the “milk stage” for harvest by puncturing a kernel with a fingernail or sharp knife. Clear liquid indicates immature corn; completely white liquid indicates overripe or starchy ears.
Pests and Problems
- Protect young shoots with a floating row cover, or sow indoors and transplant when seedlings are larger and less vulnerable to birds, cutworms, earwigs, slugs and snails.
- Use a strong spray from the garden hose to blast off aphids.
- Cut off ends before cooking ears if corn earworms enter the silk end and chew kernels.
- Remove or retain any grayish-black fungal corn smut, a non-poisonous, edible gall.
Additional Information
- Sonoma County Master Gardener Vegetable Planting Summary.
- https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Food_Gardening_with_Less_Water/
- http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/corn/index.html
- http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/corn/cultural-tips/
February 2022